Planning an Urban Garden

 

1. Site Selection

• Assess sun/shade pattern, to determine hours of sunlight for a potential garden site (the easiest way is to use one of the many apps out there that will show the patterns of the sun over your property for any day of the year)
• Assess the selected site for drainage – for wet, poorly drained areas consider:
  • Raised beds
  • Rainwater catchment systems
  • Water loving plants above the selected site
  • French drains
  • Or all of the above in our case
• Proximity to a water source is essential – when establishing plants or direct seeding you will need to water daily if rainfall is inadequate
• Secure the site from predation – fencing is always a good option – wildlife can be hungry, curious and destructive – avoid bird netting – snakes, lizards and other small creatures can become entangled in it
• Determine your current soil – most soil requires amendment – complete a soil analysis after amendments are added – I LOVE COMPOST, and so do vegetables

2. Planning phase

• Determine the number of square feet you will need for the plants you want to grow – this is tricky because you always find more you want to grow
• Will you be installing raised beds or an in ground garden
• Use graph paper to draw a scale map
• use marking paint to outline your plan on the site to assess for appearance
• Consider any features you may want or need – like fountains, a tool storage area, seating or lighting

3. Constructing your hardscape

• In ground gardens are easy, low cost options – not always feasible if you have drainage issues, invasive plants & grasses – or an aging back and knees
  • remove grass and weeds from the selected site
  • add a minimum of 3 inches of organic matter, COMPOST is preferred
  • till into the native soil, till very well as this should be the only time you till the garden – no till gardening is best once established
  • each year add 3-6 inches of organic matter to enrich and renew the soil
• Raised bed gardening has gained favor over the past 10 years –
  • It allows for drainage
  • Ease of soil amendment,
  • Improved weed control
  • Easy access without walking on the surface and compressing the earth
• You can hand pick the growing medium used to fill your raised beds
  • My preference is certified compost
  • Till the native soil after removing grass and weeds
  • Till in 3 inches of organic matter
  • Over time continue to amend the soil every 1-2 years with more organic matter until you reach the desired height
  • For instant gratification just keep adding compost or a mixture of garden soil and compost to desired height
• I prefer to place a few layers of thick cardboard in the bottom of the bed to smother weeds, seeds and grasses then fill with garden soil and/or compost to a depth of 6-8 inches the first year
• Carefully assess the natural drainage of your selected site
  • –If you have very poor drainage you will need to have a taller raised bed than the traditional 8-12 inches
  • Do not add peat, vermiculite or any highly absorbent matter to the soil unless you live in an arid climate
• Raised beds can vary greatly in price, largely the cost is determined by the materials chosen for construction
  • Non chemically treated pallets are free, you may choose to staple heavy-duty landscape fabric on the open ends to prevent erosion
  • If you have logs laying around use them to frame out the bed to stop soil erosion _ dig a trench for them to nestle into to prevent rolling onto tender toes, again cardboard on the base works wonders, fill with soil and/or compost
  • Pressure treated lumber,(non arsenic), is a low cost option but will need to be braced or reinforced to prevent bulging from soil expansion
  • Wood composite is more costly than lumber but will last longer and have fewer issues with warping or bulging
  • Dry set concrete block is expensive, and HEAVY! It also lasts a very long time and allows for greater mounding to aid in drainage and greater depth for root vegetables – it also has the advantage of being reusable and somewhat mobile should you find the need to relocate your garden for any reason

4. Soil Management

• Identify your native soil
  • Clay soils are dense, drain poorly, are rich in mineral content and frequently have a low Ph
  • Loamy soils are soft but compressible, easily worked, drain well and their nutrient content and Ph can vary widely
  • Sandy soils drain readily, can be heavily compressed and are frequently lacking in minerals, Ph can be variable although typically it will be on the high side
• Soil amendment
  • Weed reduction/suppression is essential
  • Amendment is always a good idea and is essential unless your native soil is perfect loam that has not been depleted by existing or prior vegetation – Compost is always my first choice of material to create healthy garden soil
  • Soil analysis will help you determine how much and what type of amendment and fertilizer you will need
• Soil supplementation
  • Beneficial nematodes and microbes can be added to your garden, as can worms
  • Soil snakes make lovely tunnels through the soil providing natural aeration – they magically appear in my garden
  • Fertilizer is important, the application of it will be recommended on your soil report – be careful though, they always recommend nitrogen as it is unstable and cannot be directly tested – too much nitrogen leads to lush, leafy plants and lower production of fruits/vegetables – if the rest of your soil report is well balanced you might wait and assess your plants before the application of nitrogen

 

• Do not disturb
  • No till gardening has gained favor in recent years – till when establishing and amending a new garden – after that kick back, relax and let the worms and snakes do the aeration for you
  • When possible leave roots in place and harvest from above the level of the soil – the root structure will provide air and nutrients to the soil and provide a habitat for worms

5. Detrimental factors

• Weeds
  • Prep your garden site in advance – cover it with cardboard or black plastic to smother any existing weeds – after six weeks remove the covering, water the area well, allow germination, then shallow till (2 inches) this brings weed seeds to the surface and allows them to germinate and be eradicated before they are able to re seed themselves
  • A hula hoe is very effective for cutting weeds off at the level of the soil
  • Pulling weeds after a rain when the soil is soft allows for easy removal of the roots without undue disturbance of the soil – added benefit is working off any stress or tension
  • My personal opinion is herbicides do not belong in a vegetable garden
• Garden predation
  • Deer, rabbits, squirrels, groundhogs, opossums, birds and voles – a solid fence, a good dog and a cat are excellent management strategies
  • Most insects are not harmful to your garden – there is a huge list of insects that are attracted to vegetable plants – there is also a much larger list of the predator insects that will eat the harmful ones that want to snack on your plants
  • Dormant horticultural oils, diamataceous earth and Bacillus thuringiensis are all non toxic, organic insect control methods – when all else fails you can use a vegetable safe commercial chemical preparation to prevent crop destruction – follow the instructions on the label exactly and spray late in the day when bees are less likely to be present
  • Try planting companion plants that deter predators – most herbs, except basil, are unpalatable to wildlife and insects, as are marigolds
  • Invasive plants can be terribly problematic if planted in or near the garden- Bermuda, centipede and Johnson grass are all but impossible to eradicate, as is bamboo – and as delicious and yummy as mint, cane berries, horseradish and asparagus can be they are best planted in their own space….or a neighbor’s yard….preferably across an asphalt surface and at the corner of the street farthest from your yard (in the case of mint or horseradish)

6. Plant diseases

• Bacterial
• There are millions of bacterial species found in soil – most are beneficial or benign
• Bacterial wilt, bacterial canker and crown gall can all damage or destroy vegetables
• Many vegetables, ( common in tomatoes and peppers), will develop bacterial leaf spot
• Healthy plants will often tolerate a certain amount of leaf spot
• Remove any damaged leaves from the plant and the surrounding area – provide a new layer of mulch and a bit of fertilizer and your plants should continue to produce
• If the leaf spot becomes more aggressive remove the entire plant to prevent contamination of neighboring plants
• Viral
• Viruses exist in nature – they can be easily transmitted, most require a living host
• More concerning are those viruses that can arise from contaminated seeds and those that can over winter in the soil living off of old root structures
• Tomato spotted wilt, cucumber mosaic and tobacco (tomato) mosaic are all examples of viruses that can infect your plants
• Most plants that become infected will exhibit stunted growth and eventually death
• Again, good cultural practices and healthy plant nutrition are the best defense

 

• Fungal
  • Fungi, on the whole, are beneficial or benign, many are even tasty
  • When fungi are a problem they can become a huge problem – plant demise is almost always the result
  • Fungi are spore formers and can live in the soil for a number of years only to “come alive” when the conditions are right and a host plant is present
  • Verticiilium wilt, fusarium wilt, early blight, late blight, white rot, powdery and downy mildew – the list can be endless and frightening
  • Remove any infected plants – consider removing their neighbors as well if they are in the same species or are known to be susceptible to the fungus identified
  • Some organic solutions are available and can be effective for certain fungi
  • Many fungi require ongoing treatment with antifungal preparations if you choose to “save” those crops – at least until the conditions the fungi favor no longer exist
  • Consider complete removal from that section/bed in your garden and attempt solarization of the soil for 3 months – 3 years dependent on the specific organism
  • remember that humans have grown food for literally thousands of years….and until the 20^th century largely without chemical intervention
  • Also remember that healthy, well fed, living organisms are often capable of recovering from many “illnesses”
• Sometimes weather, events, biology and fate win – just rip it out and try a different crop

7. Cultural practice

• Water early in the day
• water deeply 1-2 times weekly, not daily
• Allow enough space between mature plants for good air movement
• Mulch to protect plants from soil splash
• Provide adequate nutrition
• Avoid soil splash onto the leaves – water the base of the plant where possible
• Know the source of the soil and compost you bring into the garden
• Only buy seeds and plants from reputable companies
• Do not compost any infected leaves or plants – those go into the trash
• Clean tools after each use – sanitize after pruning or using to remove diseased plants
• Provide the appropriate fertilizer and soil amendments at the correct time in the correct amount
• Have your soil tested every 3 years – consider doing this more frequently if you do intensive, year round gardening
  • A side note about having a home garden -My Uncle has had his garden in the same 20×30 spot in his yard for 51 years – he grows tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans and most greens and lettuces every year – he has always had a bumper crop – nothing replaces good cultural practice!

8. Time to start growing

• Transplants
  • Many vegetable can be purchased as live plants or seeded indoors before the growing season begins
  • If you choose to purchase plants inspect them carefully for any signs of disease or predation, if possible check the root system for nodules or insects
  • Plants grown under greenhouse conditions are frequently stressed by indifferent care and watering once they reach the retail store
  • Look for smaller plants with sturdy stems and lush, green foliage – small plants adapt quickly and easily when placed into the garden
  • Know your plant – some vegetables get very large – space them appropriately for their mature size
  • If any plants in the store have evidence of disease – GO TO ANOTHER STORE – disease can spread very quickly when plants are kept in close proximity – even if they look healthy they could already be contaminated
• Direct seeding
  • Most vegetables can be directly seeded into the garden, some, like lettuce prefer it and many, like carrots require it
  • Many seeds require light to germinate – a good rule of thumb is the smaller the seed the shallower the depth below the soil level
  • Look very closely at a ruler before you seed – seeds planted too deep will not germinate well, if at all – most seed packages have a recommended planting depth
  • Keep seeds evenly moist until they have sprouted and become established plants
  • Thin seedlings to the recommended spacing – many crops fail or become diseased from over crowding

 

 

• Garden Maintenance
  • Most crops require 1 inch of water every 5-7 days – water deeply and less often so they will establish deep roots
  • Nothing replaces visual inspection- look at your garden daily if possible
  • Check for harmful insects, symptoms of disease and sprouting weeds
  • Keep your tools and gloves in a handy location – also a good stick or shovel just in case you have an unwanted visitor
  • If you choose to maintenance spray follow the recommended schedule on the manufacturer’s label
  • Plants are like every living thing – they have a natural life cycle and life expectancy – if they have produced like crazy for weeks it may be time to cycle in the next round of crops
  • Talk to them – it doesn’t really make them grow but it does keep your neighbors wondering and your eyes inspecting
  • Consider fertilizing throughout the season – many vegetables are very heavy feeders and will deplete essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous, calcium and potassium quickly
  • Remove all dead plants at the end of the season – if you are not planning a fall garden consider a cover crop of daikon radish, legumes, clover or rye grass
  • In milder climates you can garden successfully year round – in the south my favorite gardens are always fall through spring – huge harvests with much less work
  • Many hybrids have been intentionally developed for the mono crop culture of commercial agriculture for a variety of reasons:
  • Heirlooms vs Hybrids
    • disease resistance
    • Uniformity – for appearance and ease of harvest
    • Storage ability
    • Timing of harvest
    • Climate adapted
  • Most heirlooms ARE hybrids
    • Accidental, natural cross pollination for thousands of years created the “modern” diversity of “heirloom” plants
    • 9-11 thousand years ago “domestication” of desired species initiated accidental, human engineered hybridization
    • Intentional, scientific hybridization began in the 19^th century – thus an “heirloom” variety from 1910 is, in all probability, a modern hybrid
    • Many heirloom vegetables have excellent disease resistance when given the proper growing conditions and care
  • Choose the plant or seed that is best suited to your location, soil, available space and desired traits – Heirloom or hybrid matters little in the long run

9. Garden safety

• Gardens are natural environments – nature is not always your friend
  • Many plants are poisonous or can cause contact dermatitis – think okra and poison ivy – learn to identify plants that are toxic or poisonous
  • Do not touch or taste plants you do not recognize as safe
  • Wear gloves to weed, plant and manipulate soil or mulch
  • Wear closed toed shoes – bugs can and do bite
  • Tools are sharp, do not lay them down in grass or under plants
  • Use sunscreen
  • Drink plenty of water – gardening is hot work
  • NEVER put your hands where you can’t see them – snakes like to take naps in the moist, cool shade of a summer garden and your fingers can look like their favorite prey
  • Use a stick or a shovel to lift foliage if you need to reach underneath
  • Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for fertilizers, insecticides, herbicides and any other chemicals you choose to use –
  • Never spray on a windy day
  • Most spiders are non poisonous – Black widows and Brown recluse spiders are poisonous – wear gloves
  • Fire ants are aggressive and have a painful bite and sting – they build their homes underground – Boots offer the best protection
  • If you suffer from an insect bite that doesn’t resolve or appears more inflamed or painful after a few hours seek medical treatment

 

 

• Snake management
  • Sooner or later there will be a snake – even non poisonous snakes can bite so gloves are essential
  • snakes also carry salmonella on their skin so wash your hands well after any contact
  • The best strategy is to gently nudge them along with a hoe or rake – they don’t want to meet you either and will usually slither away if they have an open avenue of escape
  • Never attempt to remove a poisonous snake with your hands – they have a strike distance  up to 1/3 of their body length and do not need to be coiled to strike
  • Do not hesitate to call a professional to remove a poisonous snake if you are uncomfortable waiting for it to leave the area
  • If you are bitten by a poisonous snake seek medical help immediately – if you are alone call 911
  • If you are familiar with snakes and are confident it is a non poisonous snake leave it in your garden – it will deter rodents and birds from snacking on your crops

 

9. Pollinators, predatory insects and other garden friends

• Bees, butterflies, solitary bees, wasps and hummingbirds are all wonderful pollinators – plant flowers near your vegetables to lure them into your garden
• Wheel bugs, praying mantis, predatory wasps, ladybugs, dragonflies and spiders, to name a few, are all beneficial in keeping the population of detrimental insects at a minimum in your garden
• Worms, soil snakes and tunneling insects all help aerate your soil, eat debris, speed the breakdown of organic matter and assist in cleaning and fertilizing your soil, besides they can be fun to play with – especially soil snakes – they are very active and squirmy when exposed to light
• Non poisonous snakes eat rodents, other snakes, lizards and bugs – they also deter birds

 

10. Tips, Tricks and Tall Tales

• Every gardener has a few tricks and tips they will share with you…IF they like you
  • “All it takes is faith…and fertilizer,” – My uncle, Fred Boggs
  • “Manure tea will make anything grow prettier,” – My surrogate father, Ernest Kouma
  • “Just throw a little water in their face, they’ll be alright,” – my mother, Ellen Fraley
  • “Watermelons need all day sun and are sweeter after a dry spell,” my elementary school principal, Bill Thompson
  • “Take a stick out to the garden with you for snakes,” my childhood neighbor, Alma Storms
  • “Be patient, mother nature takes her time,” my 5^th grade teacher, Verbal Thompson
• Every gardener also tells tall tales so start working on yours now
  • For inspiration sit down and chat with any gardener
  • Go for a drive down a back road, stop at a feed/farm supply store and listen to the old men talk on Saturday morning
  • Never believe the tall tales of a man trying to sell you something “guaranteed” to make your vegetables produce – he will skip town before the results come in
  • Keep a camera handy – skeptics require proof
  • Make the story outrageous enough to engage but believable enough to keep it going down the line
  • Never wear flip flops to garden – that’s my story and I am sticking to it! Somewhere in Arizona is the ghost of a headless, 5 foot rattlesnake…..who likes flip flops!
• Planting by the phases of the moon
  • Above ground crops get planted during the light of the moon, (waxing to full), Root crops get planted in the dark of the moon, (just past full to waning)
  • There is no scientific evidence that supports planting by the moon….try telling that to an old gardener
  • It seemed to work for our ancestors so give it a try
  • “planting by the dark of the moon” does not mean planting at night